Review
The Carlton Hotel, Ilfracombe

Nestled along the South West Coast Path, The Carlton Hotel is perfectly located for North Devon adventures. With restaurant-quality food crafted from top-notch local ingredients and rooms designed for ultimate comfort, any walker or visitor is sure to leave well-fed and well-rested.

Jeff and I, along with our two young girls, certainly experienced this. From the warm welcome from Chef Patron, Eliot Seabourn-Wren, and partner Michael Rebeiro, to the cosy duvets we snuggled under after our evening feast, every moment of our stay was wonderful.

After a late afternoon arrival, we were shown to our spacious, brand-new family room. The girls’ bunk was actually a single-bed size, and I don’t think I’ve ever slept in a bed as comfortable or as capacious as ours.

The decor in the Brasserie restaurant – including the chairs, colourways (blues and greys), and seascape finishes – reflects the hotel’s location.

The girls’ expertly shaken and stirred mocktails arrived with a sparkle of elderflower and a burst of berries, while we savoured a chilled bottle of light, smooth Fleurie that paired equally well with Jeff’s venison and my hake.

A pre-dinner chat with Eliot revealed how important working with local suppliers is to him, as well as being involved in the community. Fish from Appledore, lamb from Muddiford, and Maris Piper potatoes from Barnstaple were among the local produce featured that evening.

We started with the Scotch egg, a favourite with regulars and, as Eliot advised, big enough for us all to share. We also chose the Thai fishcakes – what flavours! The egg’s herb-infused ham hock casing set the taste bar high, while the fishcakes’ firm texture and fusion of Asian flavours were a hit.

My flaky hake came with crunchy ribbons of veg, new potatoes and a delicately curried sauce that enhanced the flavours of the fish and mussels. Jeff’s “velvet” venison haunch was served with a rich sauce of garlic, pancetta and blackberry jus, plus roasted shallots and potato galette – seasonal and sumptuous.

The girls couldn’t resist the burger from the children’s menu – what beauties they were! Full of flavour, served with skinny fries and “the best coleslaw ever”. I’ve been instructed to add apple to mine to replicate Eliot’s!

Our shared Bakewell tart, with crisp pastry, sticky jam and almond filling, came with clotted and cherry ice cream – a natural pairing I’d never tried before. Scoops of ice cream for the girls rounded off our evening feast.

Following a restful sleep, we were eager to try breakfast. I started with homemade granola, yoghurt and compote, followed by the puffiest, fluffiest golden omelette. The bacon and sausages were the stars of Jeff’s fry-up and the girls’ breakfast sandwiches – succulent and flavoursome, the kind that’s only possible with well-produced and expertly cooked ingredients.

The harbour is a “seven-minute walk away” but even with little legs in tow, it didn’t seem to take us that long. We happily headed out to explore Ilfracombe and the coastline.

The Brasserie’s kitchen delivers superb ingredients, lively flavours and generous portions. What a foodie adventure – we can’t wait to return.