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Johnny Varah, chef chef at the Cridford Inn with local produce used in his menu

Review
The Cridford Inn

Seasonal and local produce is a priority on Head Chef Johnny Varah’s menu at The Cridford Inn, Trusham. Sue Stoneman savours the new menu.

This lovely old inn, with cob walls, a thatched roof, oak beams and log fires, dates back to 825AD and is situated on the edge of Dartmoor by the River Teign near Chudleigh.

The menu includes a mix of traditional pub food as well as creative dishes using vegetables and produce sourced as close to the inn as possible. The beef comes from Beardon Farm just along the road – if you visit during the daytime, you may well see the cows in the field on your way in! Duck comes from Crediton, scallops are hand-dived by a local from the village and fish is delivered daily from Brixham. Fruit and vegetables come from the garden and from nearby Bovey Tracey. Head Chef Johnny Varah makes his own bread and forages for seasonal wild garlic.

My husband, a keen fish lover, chose the scallops for starters – plump, juicy, and served in their shells with wild garlic pesto. Tender fresh asparagus and sugar snap peas added crunch and colour and there was a little warmth from the chilli and Szechuan pepper. My starter was the Cridford Fried Cauliflower – or CFC as it’s known. I found the deep-fried florets tossed in a delicious sweet and sour glossy glaze very moreish.

Hubby went for the brisket burger for his main course. This thick, juicy patty was served with chunks of oak-smoked cheese in a toasted brioche bun, a braised red cabbage relish, and a helping of hot fries. I had the monkfish katsu. Its smooth, colourful sauce was light and spicy with bursts of sweetness from pickled raisins, and the monkfish had a crunchy coconut coating. This dish came with a fragrant jasmine rice.

We were intrigued by some of the ingredients the chef uses in his desserts – I just had to try the pear pudding with a Jerusalem artichoke caramel sauce. Much like a sticky toffee pudding, made with pears and black treacle, this sauce had a slightly sweet and nutty flavour. My ‘boozy barb crumble’ used fresh, young rhubarb from the garden and was served with a ginger and gin compote along with a delicious miso vanilla ice cream.

Visit here for some great home-cooked food and a very warm welcome.

Sample Menu

Starters

  • Szechuan duck, charred chicory, pickled cucumber, spring onion, chilli, peach hoisin
  • Wild mushroom arancini, black truffle aioli, Parmesan crisps, pea shoots
  • Stuffed crispy pork belly, cranberry, apricot & sage stuffing, five-spiced black cabbage, Chantenay carrots, Parmesan & white truffle mash, shiitake mushroom sauce

Main

  • Shoyu ramen: soy, miso, mushroom broth, noodles, broccolini, carrot ribbons, spring onion, chilli, coriander, radish

Desserts

  • Honey & sesame treacle tart, crushed almonds, miso vanilla
  • Blueberry torte, almond granola, white chocolate & lavender crème anglaise

Prices

  • Starters from £6.95
  • Mains from £10.95
  • Desserts from £5.95
Sue loves the Cridford’s traditional charm, and the fresh, local produce combined with the chef's creative flair
The Cridford Inn
Trusham
Nr Exeter
Devon TQ13 0NR

01626 853694
www.thecridfordinn.co.uk

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