The team at Devon’s oldest pub makes local food taste great, says Alex Green
Situated in the beautiful Teign Valley, which is popular with walkers and cyclists, The Cridford Inn is a picturesque Devon longhouse with its traditional charms intact.
A typical Sunday lunch attracts as many locals as it does visitors, some of whom arrive after spending an active morning enjoying the natural surroundings, before sitting down for a fine roast dinner. It’s just as well, since the generously sized portions, artistically arranged on the plate, are worthy of a good appetite.
Word gets around, so it’s no surprise that it tends to be fully booked. Once seated at our table, I opted for the arancini served with a truffle mayo to start – the ideal accompaniment to these wild mushroom risotto balls. They were crisp on the outside with a creamy centre, and the flavours lingered pleasantly on the palate.
Andrew went for the Asian pork belly bites, served with a Vietnamese-style salad, which he described as being “perfectly slow-roasted with fall-apart meat”.
For the main course, I ordered the John Dory from the à la carte menu, while Andrew had the traditional roast topside of beef. Fresh off the boat from Brixham, the fish was combined with a Sichuan salt and pepper coating, which worked a treat. This was served on a bed of onion braise, providing a soft sweet caramelised texture to offset the crispy crunch of the fried fish.
The roast had it all: local honey-roasted parsnips, garlic and thyme coated carrots, perfectly roast potatoes, tender meat served with a thick gravy and crowned with a giant Yorkshire pudding. Sunday roasts don’t get much better than this!
Taken from the Sunday Roast Lunch Menu
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