The Edgemoor Country House Hotel and Restaurant

First-rate service and fine food in the historic surroundings of a converted Victorian school room

Restaurant Review

The Edgemoor Country House Hotel and Restaurant sits between Bovey Tracey and Haytor. It is ideally situated for walkers and I have to report that it is a fantastic place to visit.

The Edgemoor used to be Bovey Tracey Grammar School. We were put off going there for many years as there was a big printed sign outside ironically saying 'No children' and we had two young ones at the time. The current owner arrived four years ago and took the sign down the same day. It is now a welcome refuge for parents, dogs and children.

We were led to a large wooden bar in a grand room with high ceilings and plush furnishings. The staff were impeccably polite and the aperitifs served (vodka and tonic with ice and lemon, plus a hot Luscombe ginger beer with ice and lime) were perfect. Notably, the wine by the glass had almost no mark up from the bottle price – a big tick in my book.

All was calm, modern and relaxed in the Library Restaurant. I noticed that some customers had ordered from the à la carte menu and some from the bar menu, and both were regarded as acceptable. All dishes looked appealing.

When I ventured to the ladies, I was struck by the noise just outside – there was a Ladies Pamper Party being held in a room nearby for the local school's PTA (room hire free of charge). It was heaving and full of giggles. I hope they had a fun evening – it was so nice that a restaurant full of diners and a party could co-exist and not interfere with each other.

My food was wonderful – well cooked, fresh and piping hot; so hot that it made us quite relaxed that we did not have to tuck in quickly before it cooled down. I didn't wish for anything fussy so I started with the pan-fried salmon salad with two beautiful poached quails' eggs. I then chose the steak pie, which was marked as a special – the surprise being it had a top and bottom (rare these days). It was very tasty, the meat was tender and well cooked and the price was reasonable too at £11.95.

My partner was in a black pudding mood (maybe I should learn to cook it?) and had three juicy scallops with pea puree, black pudding rounds and crispy pancetta to start. This was a riot of flavour, texture and colour, all nicely complementing each other. He then had crispy pork belly, served with... once again black pudding and vegetables. The black pudding was very good and wasn't served in an 'over-the-top' way.

The desserts were appealing too. My husband's frangipane and fig tart with vanilla ice cream was superb – the tart was served lukewarm and was just the right texture. The waiter admitted it was his favourite dessert – I like it when they do that! I chose the crêpes with sweet, caramelised mandarins and honeycomb ice cream.

A thoroughly enjoyable evening, where we experienced meticulous service and good food in a fine setting.

On The Menu

  • Poached pear salad with Devon cheese, walnuts and mixed leaves
  • Pan-seared scallops with black pudding, parma ham crisp and pea puree
  • Confit of Devon belly pork with chargrilled apple, black pudding, pak choi, creamed potatoes, and rosemary and thyme sauce
  • Seared monkfish with Parma ham, sage du puy lentils and spinach beurre rouge
  • Warm citrus crêpes with caramelised mandarins and honeycomb ice cream
  • Fig and frangipane tart with vanilla pod ice cream

Prices

  • Starters from £5.95
  • Mains from £15.95
  • Desserts from £5.95
The Edgemoor
Haytor Road
Bovey Tracey
Devon
TQ13 9LE
01626 832466
www.edgemoor.co.uk
Katy Hanley

Published 1 May 2013

You may also be interested in…

Restaurant Review

Home Farm Café

Karen Perrow savours this popular eatery's rustic charm and flavoursome food

Read more…

Restaurant Review

Lewtrenchard Manor, Okehampton

Sue Cade is impressed by flawless cooking

Read more…

Restaurant Review

The Berry Head Hotel, Brixham

Katy Hanley samples a Sunday roast carvery at this traditional hotel

Read more…

Restaurant Review

The Thatched Cottage, Kingsteignton

Karen Perrow experiences exceptional cooking at this popular restaurant

Read more…

Restaurant Review

Bushell’s Upper Deck Restaurant, Dartmouth

Katy Hanley enjoys well-cooked food at this new restaurant – and advises you to leave room for dessert!

Read more…

Restaurant Review

The Royal Oak, Meavy

This pub delivers deliciousness in Dartmoor surroundings, says Katy Hanley

Read more…

View the archive