Katy Hanley enjoys well-cooked food at this new restaurant – and advises you to leave room for dessert!
Bushell’s original Riverside restaurant was so popular that the owners launched another branch, the Upper Deck, in April. Situated above Dartmouth Yacht Club, just along the North Embankment from its sister restaurant, it is run by experienced chef Lee Podmore.
We had a fantastic view of the River Dart and the bustling comings and goings of boats and marine life. Our table was situated in a bay window with bright, striped cushions and great natural light. We were served promptly with some juicy olives and warm bread as a complimentary appetiser before we launched into the menu proper.
My starter of chicken parfait went really well with its accompanying chutney and crisp slices of bread. I particularly enjoyed the fresh pea shoot garnish. My husband’s moreish scallops were beautifully presented on slices of black pudding – a winning flavour combination.
For mains, we both felt compelled to order fish, sitting as we were with a clear view of the sea, river and many crabbers. I chose the whole lemon sole and my husband had the sea bream fillet. They both had very different accompaniments, which emphasised their individual flavours. Mine was served with a buttery prawn sauce, while my partner’s was perched on a bed of ratatouille. Each dish packed a flavoursome punch, without losing any of the individual fish’s distinct flavours.
For dessert, my husband enjoyed the crème brûlée with white chocolate and almond biscotti, while I had the unctuous banoffee pie. Both were rich and creamy, but certainly worth the indulgence.
This new restaurant is well worth a visit for its competently cooked food with a glorious view. Don’t skip the desserts!
Katy loves: the pea shoot garnish, the view of the River Dart and sea, the banoffee pie for dessert
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