Breakwater Bistro

Katy Hanley enjoys fresh fish and an amazing view at the Breakwater Bistro in Brixham

Restaurant Review

The last time I was in Brixham, I visited the fish market with its world-famous auction. When I was there this time, I had a chance to eat some of this superb produce at the great location of the Breakwater Bistro.

The waitresses and owners were enthusiastic in their greetings. Being steps away from a beach, there are, needless to say, amazing views over the sea and harbour. My first impressions of this venue were very good. It is the sort of place that customers could visit for an ice cream, a coffee or a full-blown three-course feast.

We sat inside, but there are plenty of tables on the two balconies, which would provide a fantastic spot on a blue-skied day. Inside, the large windows reveal the fish market, Torbay coastline, passing ships and pleasure boats. 

The restaurant is pleasantly decorated, with several blackboards displaying the daily specials, fairy lights along the windows, a framed rugby shirt (a team sponsored by the Bistro), plus small wicker baskets of plastic toy lobsters and crabs!

I chose the crab pâté as a starter, but could have eaten this as a main. It was homemade with mainly brown crabmeat, chives and a little lemon zest and came with a crusty baguette and side salad. The crabmeat was sweet and the pâté well balanced. My partner had the fried whitebait; all was well cooked – crispy, golden and delicious, while the homemade tartare sauce contained a perfect balance of capers. We felt like we were on holiday.

My main course was hake cooked in homemade batter, served with golden chips and a choice of mushy peas, petits pois or side salad. My partner had the trio of shellfish, which was presented in a large lidded pan full of Exmouth mussels, four huge crevettes and four large crab claws. It was served with a crusty baguette – great for mopping up the seafood’s garlicky, buttery juices. To complement the dish, he had a glass of Sharpham Vineyard's white wine, whose herbaceous tones and acidity balanced the richness of the food.

The Bistro is open every day of the year and until 9pm on summer evenings. They allow dogs here.

On our way out we chatted to Lee Tyrell, the friendly owner, who is rightly proud of his regular following. We are certainly going to spread the word too.

On The Menu

  • Pan-fried scallops and smoked pancetta
  • Grilled goats’ cheese crostini with sliced tomatoes and local red onion chutney
  •  Homemade fisherman’s pie – smoked haddock and salmon in a dill sauce with mashed potato and cheese – with side salad 
  • 8oz Westcountry premier sirloin steak, chargrilled, served with chunky chips, grilled tomato and mushroom, mixed salad and onion rings 
  • Lemon sorbet crème brûlée
  • A selection of ice cream sundaes

Prices

  • Starters from £4.50
  • Mains from £9.50
  • Desserts from £3.95
Breakwater Bistro
Berryhead Road
Brixham
Devon
TQ5 9AF
01803 611347
www.breakwaterbistro.co.uk
Katy Hanley

Published 26 April 2014

You may also be interested in…

Restaurant Review

Home Farm Café, Parke, Bovey Tracey

Karen Perrow savours this popular eatery’s rustic charm and flavoursome food

Read more…

Restaurant Review

Lewtrenchard Manor, Okehampton

Sue Cade is impressed by flawless cooking

Read more…

Restaurant Review

The Berry Head Hotel, Brixham

Katy Hanley samples a Sunday roast carvery at this traditional hotel

Read more…

Restaurant Review

The Thatched Cottage, Kingsteignton

Karen Perrow experiences exceptional cooking at this popular restaurant

Read more…

Restaurant Review

Bushell’s Upper Deck Restaurant, Dartmouth

Katy Hanley enjoys well-cooked food at this new restaurant – and advises you to leave room for dessert!

Read more…

Restaurant Review

The Royal Oak, Meavy

This pub delivers deliciousness in Dartmoor surroundings, says Katy Hanley

Read more…

View the archive